Very Limited Ingredient Diet, help please

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21

So IgE = miserEEEEE?

The lab that conducted my cat’s allergy tests agree that IgE scores indicate food hypersensitivity (classical allergy), and IgG scores indicate a delayed allergy.

Here are my cat’s allergy test results for food allergens; (the environmental allergen results are just too many to mention!!)

BEEF - IgE: 3 / IgG: 4
PORK - IgE: 0 / IgG: 0
LAMB - IgE: 3 / IgG: 2
DUCK - IgE: 2 / IgG: 0
CHICKEN - IgE: 1 / IgG: 0
TURKEY - IgE: 1 / IgG: 0
RABBIT - IgE: 0 / IgG: 0
SALMON - IgE: 1 / IgG: 0
TUNA - IgE: 0 / IgG: 0
WHITE FISH - IgE: 0 / IgG: 0
WHEAT - IgE: 1 / IgG: 1
SOYBEAN - IgE: 3 / IgG: 2
RICE - IgE: 5 / IgG: 3
CORN (MAIZE) - IgE: 4 / IgG: 3
EGG - IgE: 0 / IgG: 0
MILK - IgE: 4 / IgG: 3

The tests were done by Avacta Animal Health (Sensitest).

He scored IgE scores for everything, except Pork, Rabbit, Tuna, Whitefish and Egg… however I am still convinced tuna is a problem - and the lab said this is quite possible, despite the 0 score.

They also say ‘any positive reaction indicates that the allergen could be problematic and should not be included when selecting foods for a dietary trial’, which leaves me pretty stuck for suitable options.

I am desperate to get to the bottom of his food issues but seem to have no success with whatever I try. Another mealtime is coming up now and I just don’t know what to do.

22

My dog scored 3 on IgE with Duck. She’s been on single protein duck food from Nov 2016 to Feb 2017 and again from the beginning of this month. No reactions whatsoever. :slight_smile:
Even my vet said he trusted the test for environmental allergies but on food it’s completely unreliable. As I said, the only real test you can make is the elimination diet, unless you want to keep your cat on hydrolised food forever.

23

Can we rewind a little…
Intolerances and sensitivities to food affect the immune system which then reacts to the ‘culprit’ in the food. These reactions are usually as skin reactions (for example an oversensitivity leading to generalised scratching), and less often, but may also, be accompanied by mucky ears, caused by the usual level of yeast not being correctly dealt with by the animal, leading to an overgrowth of yeast in the ears.

There are also digestive reactions, usually looser stools ie diarrhoea, and less often accompanied by vomitting.

These over reactions shown in the saliva tests of IgA and IgM are available and you can test directly (from you to the lab) or through a vet. The link is here: http://www.nutriscan.org

NutriScan was developed by world renowned veterinarian, Dr. Jean Dodds, an American vet who has written many books, reviews and scientific papers. Her work is acknowledged and peer reviewed as well as being sourced in other research papers and I’d not dismiss looking further into this test if it may help a pet through this situation of over reactions to foods.

24

An animal’s ‘overly sensitive’ reactivities can change at any time with environmental exposures after being stable with no reactions for some time prior.

However, food sensitivities are cumulative and happen over time, with exposure to a particular ingredient. Hence one of the reasons for a varied diet, if possible.

The antibodies to IgM measure the body’s primary immune response to a recent exposure of certain foods (in secretions like saliva) within the last 6 months.

Whereas antibodies to IgA measure the immune response to certain foods that have occured over the last 2 years.

25

Thanks for the info on the test Meg, I am open to all suggestions. Although I will have to see if I can afford it… (the last few tests and all the vet visits have nearly finished me off). I will investigate it further. I also hope to try immuno-therapy after a few months in our new environment.

I understand food allergies can change, and that they are known to develop after constant exposure to a particular protein. However my cat’s test results indicate allergic responses to proteins that were not a big part of his previous diet, so there is something more going on here. Perhaps an allergic reaction to one protein is causing reactions to others? (e.g. chicken and turkey?)

I also hope that finding and avoiding the problematic protein/s might cause the allergy to disappear eventually… at which time, I could include it in his protein rotation.

However my immediate problem is what to feed him now. Please can you guys help me with the elimination diet?

When I realised he had food allergies (before the tests) I tried every different brand of food I could find, wet and dry - but nothing seemed to work. 4-6 hours after mealtimes, he would start scratching frantically, to different degrees depending on the food.

I kept a careful food diary and detailed spreadsheets of ingredients for months - but had no success. (I now realise that it was difficult to identify common ingredients because he has so many different food allergies).

He won’t eat raw food or cooked meat… and the hydrolysed protein diets make him sick.

So I don’t know what to try next…

I suppose I could feed him a normal diet and put him on a permanent course of cortisone pills? - but then I am treating the symptoms and ignoring the problem… Not to mention the long-term side effects of cortisone, which worry me greatly.

Anti-histamines don’t seem to work… but I have only tried Piriton so far.

If you could please can you give me some advice on what to do next, I would be very grateful. I weighed him today and he is definitely getting thinner. I would like to have him back onto a good, healthy diet as soon as possible! He is my baby and I’m really worried about him.

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26

The NutriScan website looks very impressive!

27

The elimination diet is very simple in principle and terribly hard in practice. Pick 1 meat, possibly one your cat never had before, and feed only that for 8 weeks. Main meals and treats, all need to be made exclusively by 1 ingredient. You can’t use commercial food as they will always be combinations of different ingredients. Be merciless if he seems to be fussy; we all tend to spoil our pets but eventually hunger will prevail and no creature will chose to starve to death just because he doesn’t fancy raw food.
If after 8 weeks you see improvements, well done! If he’s still the same or worse, pick a different meat and start over.
I suppose that cats have the additional challenge of what they eat when they’re out and about… is he free to roam the neighbourhood?

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28

Yes there is a fee for animal testing to be carried out and some can be quite pricey(!) and yet further testing may prove cost effective in the long run…? It needs considering as to the importance of if those further results could help you find food that your cat at this time might tolerate.

In the interim, to read further about hydrolysed protein foods and elimination diets (exclusion diets) there are useful threads here :

https://www.allaboutdogfood.co.uk/forum/feeding-dogs-with-health-problems/14/food-intolerance-and-exclusion-diets/762/]
**
https://www.allaboutdogfood.co.uk/forum/general-discussion/1/hydrolysed-dog-food-including-exclusion-diet/1272/**

https://www.allaboutdogfood.co.uk/forum/general-discussion/1/peas/691/msg1055;topicseen#msg1055

29

I wonder whether the information highlighted by another thread may offer a possible explanation to his results in this instance? A 2015 investigation shows apparent omissions in declaring all proteins on pet food labelling for dog and cat food.
Here is the link:

https://www.allaboutdogfood.co.uk/forum/dog-foods/3/just-wondering-what-protein-is-in-my-dog-food/1426/

30

I’m sure that is possible… maybe his old ‘chicken’ diet was loaded with turkey, duck and other proteins, and I didn’t even know it. (I suppose ‘meat derivatives’ on the label could mean anything… and I probably don’t want to know what!).

Unfortunately it is pollen season so my cat’s food allergy problems are being made worse by his environmental allergies. Last night was very bad - he was scratching all night, and rubbing his face - which made his eye start watering. He is also losing hair on his eyebrow area and is understandably very agitated.

I gave him more anti-histamines but they didn’t work, so we ended up at the vet today for a short-acting cortisone shot. I don’t like giving him cortisone, but didn’t see an alternative. At least he is looking a little happier now, poor thing.

None of the foods with the ‘correct’ ingredients have worked… they are either ignored or cause a reaction. And he doesn’t enjoy meat at all - cooked or raw… but I suppose you are right Akita, the elimination diet has to be cruel to be kind.

I must start him on a new diet this week.

If I consider his blood results, the best choices for elimination diet are rabbit, pork or white fish (or a novel protein - but there are really no novel options for him… as he has eaten nearly everything!).

As my local butcher doesn’t have rabbit - and pork is quite fatty - it seems fish is our best option…

So what if I put him on a white fish diet for several weeks and go from there? Is it safe to feed him fish in such large quantities?

(Another thing worries me about fish - I think it might have caused him allergic reactions in the past. So if he starts reacting on the diet, i will have to discontinue it immediately).

Otherwise I see NATURE’S MENU have a range of raw foods available which seem very convenient - they deliver frozen ready-meals direct to your door. (This would help me a great deal as a single mum!) Unfortunately all the raw food options include chicken as an ingredient, which is another one of his suspect proteins.

Do you think I should try it anyway? Does the fact that the meat is raw make any difference?

31

I have used Nature’s Menu in the past, they have good products and you can also find them at pet stores -those large enough to have a freezer. They also sell bags of pure mince meat and bone, probably that is the safest option for time being until you find exactly what your cat is allergic too.
There are many supporters of raw feeding and plenty of pets who thrive on such diets; personally I don’t think all pets should be fed for their entire lives on raw meat but on the short term I don’t see any problems.
One word of wording, especially if you have young kids: raw meat, particularly poultry, contains bacteria that are harmful for humans. I don’t want to scare you and following basic hygiene rules will keep you and your family safe: always wash your hands and the surfaces in contact with the meat. Some people go as far as saying that if your pet licks at your face immediately after eating, that’s dangerous too. I’m not an expert but I think that goes a bit too far on the cautious side… but again, especially with children, better safe than sorry.

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32

I agree about the NM products. Their packaging also makes raw easy to feed. I am unable to feed raw but I sometimes give the dogs a pouch of Country Hunter single protein food. It is similar in recipe to the raw version but is gently steamed. Pack size is 150g and they are widely sold in pet supply shops. I do not know if these products would be alright for cats so would recommend discussing with NM advisors.

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33

If you are considering feeding raw food, there is another processing method that you may not have previously tried with your cat, namely, feeding raw food that has been Freeze dried.

Freeze drying begins with fresh raw ingredients, ( eg meats, vegs, fruits, herbs) then water content is removed and this is the form in which you buy the product. When about to feed you’d add water, and wait, usually 10-15 minutes, whilst the product rehydrates to resemble it’s original form.

You may find this is accepted (and hopefully tolerated!) by your cat as an as yet untried type of feeding raw food.

34

My other (non-allergic!) cat happily eats the Nature’s Menu chicken and turkey pouches. However NM’s range of cat foods are quite limited compared to the dog food range. It looks like all the pouches (except chicken) contain mixed proteins… and none are appropriate, which is really unfortunate.

The Optimanova Rabbit and Potato kibble just arrived so I am trying that first; (their website claims it is single-protein). My cat’s blood tests suggest rabbit should be ok… and it is definitely an unusual protein, so I am cautiously optimistic; (although I’m not sure how he’ll react to potato).

I am still searching for a wet food, as the Ropocat and Feringa canned foods have the right ingredients but have been repeatedly ignored.

Avacta still have some of my cat’s blood and they can test up to 4 foods for an allergic reaction. I am going to price this option and choose four foods for testing. Which four, I don’t know yet…

35

Let’s hope all goes well with this food and (fingers crossed) that the animal or vegetable source of the oils and fats is accepted without adverse reactions.

However I am still searching for a wet food

Suggestions that may help are “Animonda Carny Ocean”, namely, ‘White Tuna & Prawns’, ‘White Tuna & Quail Egg’, ‘Tuna & Seafood’, ‘White Tuna & Red Snapper’, “Feringa Game with Canberries & Dandelion”, “Grau Feast Sensitive Mutton with Spelt”.

Avacta still have some of my cat's blood and they can test up to 4 foods for an allergic reaction. I am going to price this option and choose four foods for testing. Which four, I don't know yet..

I wonder if it may be wise (given there a concern regarding his reactions to tuna) to have tuna retested?

36

Sorry I don’t understand…it’s probably me ??? Can you shed more light on this please…

37

Hey Meg, I just meant he will not eat the Ropocat or Feringa cat foods. I have given them to him many times now… but even when he is hungry, he will not eat them. It is a pity, because the ingredients looks perfect.

As for the Optimanova Rabbit and Potato, they advertise it as a ‘single-protein’ food… so I should hope there is nothing in the oils or fats except for rabbit proteins?! (Although by comparison, I see James Wellbeloved claim their turkey pouches only have a ‘single source of animal protein’ - but then they list fish oil in the ingredients, so surely this means it isn’t single protein?)

As my cat still has cortisone in his system, I won’t be able to judge his response to the food this week… (although the poor boy is still scratching despite the cortisone shot, and I am applying Virbac Allerderm Spot-On, which helps his itchy skin a little bit).

I am pretty sure tuna is a problem but will think about retesting it… I only have four tests and would really like to confirm two suitable foods (one wet and one dry) if possible. I wish I could test more than four foods!! but I don’t want him to have more blood drawn right now; he has had enough stress this month, and I probably couldn’t afford it anyway.

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38

Thank you loucat, yes I understand, I wonder maybe perhaps if it’s the smell putting him off? Or if he has tried that particular food then in may be the taste, or texture is not to his liking?

It sounds like applying Virbac is helping him, which is good to hear. :slight_smile:

I've had excellent results (on my dogs) in the past,  with "Vetgold Cream", which I buy online,  and know of other dogs doing well on it:

“VetGold™ is an all-natural Dead Sea, Over The Counter product line specially designed to promote the natural healing of dry, damaged and irritated itchy skin. VetGold is enriched with Dead Sea minerals, natural oils and natural plant extracts that rejuvenate, revitalise, moisturise and nourish the skin cells. VetGold does not contain any non-organic medicinal chemicals such as cortisone, steroids or synthetic vitamins which, with prolonged use, may cause harm”.

And here’s the link if anyone may want a peruse…:
VetGold™ Cream

39

Thank you! I have found VetGold on Amazon UK and will order some right now! (I only have a steroid cream which I don’t like to use).
Will it be OK if he licks it off?

He also shows an allergy to dust mites, and I have been recommended Virbac’s Indorex spray; (there’s a lot of chat about it on PetForums). I’m not sure I would be comfortable using it and would prefer to just keep washing the bedding and hoovering regularly instead. But would be interested to know if you use this product?

As for the canned foods (Ropocat and Feringa rabbit/venison varieties)… it is the smell I think. The first few times, he wouldn’t even try them. Then he took a bite the other day because he was hungry, and for a minute, I thought he would spit it out! He did not look impressed. (My other cat won’t go near them either). Maybe they are just being fussy… but I have tried many times now and only the flies will eat it, so it goes straight in the bin.

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40

Mine were fine 8)

I’d expect a possibility of licking after application and it may be prudent to check directly with them about the cream being licked by your cat.

I’d try to limit his exposure to as many chemicals as possible at this time as he is having a hard time of it at the moment in reactivities. For me this would include sprays and powders, plug-in air fresheners, biological washing powders, scented conditioners, etc. I’d be using as few unscented products as possible. So I’d wash his bedding in non-biological and dry it naturally too, and I’d use a dust mite pillow protector on his bedding.

Dust mites loathe cold dry air, and so I’d keep temperatures below 68 (easier said than done in our summers!) and I’d try to keep the air as dry as possible with a dehumidifier. Also I’d consider HEPA air filtering as this type of air ‘purifying’ should really help with dust mite allergies.